TC Tips, Tricks & Questions

The camera picks up the difference in the gunmetal color between RTA and Device, but it’s really not that noticeable to the naked eye. I’m very pleased with the build quality of both! One thing…if someone could put into layman’s terms what the purpose of “temp protect” is on the DNA board, and can it be disabled? I briefly flirted with escribe software and didn’t see any setting’s to stop this annoying function, which keeps the mod from firing for a couple of clicks after a rest. Thanks to @SmilingOgre for the tip on WireOptim(order coming in tom.) and I’ll try my luck at spinning up my own coils. @Daveflowers9 for the guidance on what wire sizes to buy.
I’m already getting more proficient at wicking, thinning tails, and what I’ve found to be very important…how much, or should I say, how little cotton needs to be fed into the wells. Shout out again to Dman :grimacing: Thanks for getting me on my way to building, @SessionDrummer :+1: It’s really fun and satisfying to see my handiwork come to life with the press of a button!

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Sounds like you’re doin great! Temp protect should only come on toward the end of a vape when you are using temperature control. It simply means that your vape is up to temperature and the mod is backing off. Oh, and when you get low on juice in temp control to prevent dry hits.

Now that confuses me and is odd. The atty should cool enough between vapes that temp control does not stop the start of a vape.

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Yeah, I’m getting a little queasy all of the sudden with the super pricing on the Centauras’, Thelema and Grus’ I picked up at Vapor Empire. Sent one Grus back with a sticking fire button and now the other one is intermittently doing the same :man_facepalming:
The Lost Vape security thingy on all the boxes seemed to be authentic, but the $114 price tag had me wondering how they do it when everyone else is charging +/- $150/ea. for the Centauras/Thelema models. I think I’m going to contact Evolv with serial numbers in hand, to verify.

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$114 is surely a great price. Neither of my Grus had sticky fire buttons. The only Lost Vape with a button problem that I found was the Lost Vape Triade 250C and that was an assembly mistake. The gasket under the button was reversed on installation. “New Guy” on the line, right? Either that or too many rice beers the night before, lol. Where I have been disappointed with Lost Vape is their paint. I have quite a few Lost Vape mods with missing paint now. Having said that, form, fit, and function has been outstanding. The Centauras and the Paranormal just didn’t hit my eye but I’m still fighting with myself over the Thelema. I’ve got two pre “C” Therions that I really love. Weird, but the Therion fits my hand like a glove where the Paranormal’s flanges on the top and bottom just bug me and it appears that the Centauras has similar flanges. Probably due to the bottom battery door?

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Things I would check @whthek

  • coil leads are tight
  • correct tcr setting for coil (and/or correct material selected)
  • mod is reading correct resistance
  • make sure that the resistance is set on a cold coil - if the set resistance is higher than the current resistance I have seen the temp protect come up (mind you i have not used TC fo quite some time)
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You can verify the authenticity of the board by starting escribe a clicking on the ‘get information’ button :wink:

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I have purchased a couple of HCigar mods with evolve boards that were not calibrated in manufacture but never a Lost Vape. That would do it too not knowing the internal resistance of the mod.

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Also a thing worth checking is the 510 on the mod + atty is clean.
I had the same problem with my rebel when I first got it, took the atty off cleaned its butt and the mod, never happened again.

Oh and regarding price I know here in the uk the thelema has been on sale at £99 in a few shops so should be legit
I can’t really warrant it yet but I’m sooo close to pulling the trigger on one :upside_down_face:

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Thank you all! I’m testing now, but thinking that because I was re measuring my ohms on a warm coil, I was indeed causing the ‘temp protect’ to be a bit over protective :wink:

@Wayneo, A check of the software with escribe shows the board to be authentic. :+1:

Ahhh, the trials of being a newb to TC :roll_eyes:

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I have an HCigar mod which keeps kicking out of Replay especially after not taking a vape for 20 mins or so. I have to wait for the save puff option to become reactive and set-up again! Doesn’t happen at all on any of my other DNAC devices!

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Yep, Newvaping are always worth monitoring for price drops on Lost Vapes and Dovpo DNAC devices, bought all three of my Odin Minis from there and the most expensive one with a discount code was £85 and that also included 2 free Golisi 21700 batteries!

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Good shout there Tim👍🏻 I’ve not come across that one yet, I usually buy from Ecigone but new vape have more things I want it seems.
Looks like I’m haemorrhaging more money on pay day :joy::joy::joy:

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Worth clicking their notifications on!

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These are probably the most common issues for TC failure or poor performance on a DNA mod. Also, make sure you don’t have a wonky atomizer with something like a loose/wobbly coil post or a 510 pin that is loose. Everything needs to be quite solid.

One other thing that I always found made for some good reliability is making spaced coils. Contact coils can often cause resistance fluctuations which is death to TC. In fact, the two issues above do that as well.

As an aside, I just picked up that Pulse V2 I shared a photo of earlier. I ended up putting a new build in that Elder Dragon - 6.5 wraps of 22ga Titanium with 3.5 ID. OMG the temp control is working like a champion.

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I can’t remember how to calibrate one. It’s been years. You might want to try to look it up and try it. Of course it could be a poor connection someplace as well. Hard to say.

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All of them are running great, now! I was switching profiles on a hot coil, and when asked if I was using the new ohm reading, I was saying yes. This was a benefit because I was getting a warmer, more voluminous hit like I’d grown accustomed to with the wattage vaping up til now. So, after putting the mod down for awhile and then trying to take a hit, I was getting locked out with temp protect popping up, for a couple clicks of the power button.
Anyway, thank you for helping me along! Hope this mess I just wrote has some semblance of coherent thought :crazy_face: :laughing:

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When you’ve set the wrong coil (hot, not room temp, or select old for new) the best way to clear that is unscrew the atty and hit the fire button. When you screw the atty back down you should be prompted for new/old coil again, then you would select new even if you “think” it had been set for that mod previously.

FYI, I love that warm voluminous vape too. For that reason I normally vape around 510F / 265C. But…and this is a big but…your mod must be capable of producing the power necessary to reach that temp quickly in order to get that satisfying vape. For a DNA mod, if it has an adjustment for wattage while in your TC profile, then crank it up. The mod will only deliver what’s necessary to reach the temp you set. However, if you set that wattage too low, it will ramp up slowly to the set temp, or not reach it at all.

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I have been uncertain about how far to go, not wanting to destroy anything. Haven’t pushed much past 430F/60W. It’s the reason I kept switching back to wattage…I wasn’t getting the hit I wanted. This information is much appreciated! I know I should have done more research on my own :man_shrugging: Thanks again, Robert :+1:

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My next mission…coil building!

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I normally use TC at around 380F - 420F, but I only do MTL. It also depends on what juice I am vaping, custards I like at lower temps to prevent “over cooking” them, others I don’t mind warmer.

Depending on the coil, my wattage for the TC is anywhere from 13w for a round wire SS316L 1.0ohm+ coil to 20w for a SS316L Clapton coil at 0.9ohms.

It’s all experimental to work out what works for you. At least with the DNA-C you can set the replay once you have it the way you like.

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