I agree with that assessment for sure. I know that finished surfaces will invariably wear during use, and that’s completely expected. And I wasn’t implying it was cheaply made either, just mentioning what I’ve seen so far.
I don’t have a single mod that hasn’t worn the finish off the bottom from setting it down repeatedly; totally get it. As for ‘perfect mod’ from a wear and tear perspective, I have to give some high props to my beloved iPV4s. Ball bearing spring loaded battery door is solid as a rock, and only the bottom had developed the finish rub. If you don’t look at the bottom, you’d be hard pressed to tell how many hours that beast has on it because it still looks great. But, it’s too skinny for my RDTA and the little LCD display is just dated. Meh, happens.
My problem with battery doors in general is that little bit of wiggle. It literally drives me crazy! As soon as I notice it, I can’t help but fidget around with it and make it wiggle. I put myself through hell for some reason. It’s like grinding your teeth or picking at a sore- you KNOW better but can’t help but torture yourself.
Believe me, I get that. I drove myself nuts with that kind of stuff for over a year until it finely settled in that this was just how it is. Now days as long as the thing vapes well at a year old I’m all good. Well, with the exception of a black Alien that looks like it lost a war.
The finish on my iPV8 went to hell long ago but it stayed in use. The leather shrunk and peeled, the paint got scratched up and worn off. The only saving grace was that the batt door is on the bottom, so it wasn’t prone to wigglosity that would have doomed it. I hope my Mini doesn’t wiggle, because it can get worn to hell and still used, as long as it doesn’t talk back.
Silly and minor (in the grand scope of things mod-related) I realize, but…
My original Tarnish Cylon is only off by two minutes, and that was set almost a year ago (rough guess). That’s better than many real watches do (with a mechanical movement)!
I respect where you’re coming from (and your opinion), as we all have different expectations.
Functionally speaking, I would say “one” (in this price range). The Cylon (like no one knew that was coming… ) No wear issues, no problems in SS TC, no issues in TCR TC, no issues reading impedance, no issues maintaining/tracking the impedance, no flaking out and defaulting to power mode… Just consistent performance.
The only time I’ve EVER had anything start to be “off”, has been due to a drop of liquid working it’s way through the 510 of the atty and onto the top of the 510 pin of the connector (which can cause erratic readings until it’s cleaned). Likewise for ultra rare condensation buildup (going from cold to hot) under the atty/on top of the deck. A quick cleaning/drying of either, and normal operation resumes instantly. Given it’s not the mod’s fault (for those two situations), and combined with the fact that it doesn’t have a permanent (or even temporarily) lasting effect on the electronics (like it does with some others), I’d consider that perfect!
I don’t consider “normal wear and tear” a detriment, as that’s down to outside influences. Unless we’re talking about the crap paint jobs like the Alien and others exhibited. Those were obvious defects in workmanship/process.
From what I see in deviation between units and that is just the informal study of catching a post here and there or a video here and there, that it is really no surprise that you got a Cylon that is just wonderful and I got a NaBoo that acts the same way. I’d be willing to bet they are all designed at the edge of tolerance in regard to worst out case analysis and for every few that are great there are also a few that are not so great. Couple that with the mistakes I’ve seen in assembly/manufacturing and it makes it impossible to judge a product line with a sample of one. And quite frankly that’s where I bow out. I’m not going to try to be consumer’s digest and attempt to qualify mtbf, means average failure typified on full lines of products. Far beyond my aspirations and pay grade. I think the best we have in this industry is “wow remember that mod? they really did hold up” far after the model and or company is dead and gone.
Basically it’s more my outlook of “I think one’s chances are greatly improved” if you start with quality components from respected manufacturers, than the latest “whatever silicon that’s fresh off a second or third rate fab to start with”.
These folks seem to churn out new chip designs faster than they breathe. And they’re frequently not even bothering to iron out the same bugs that persist from one batch to the next.
I concede that many have improved the impedance reading abilities (though, often, not the tracking ability while in use it seems). But how many years now have we had flaky TC (across the same brand(s) of chips, and through multiple touted revisions), or jumping out of TC mode altogether and into power mode, or…
That’s all I meant by perfect.
I’m sorry if I made things uncomfortable.
I didn’t mean to. I wasn’t trying to be or sound argumentative. Just my usual analytical self.
I apologize if it came off as such.
Totally agree with your outlook on longevity though. Time is the ultimate test.
Hey Sparky, no, You’re not making me uncomfortable, lol. As per “bow out” I’m referring to what I do in a review.
Honestly, I think our writings complement each other nicely. You and I both do write in a rather pragmatic tone and forgo a lot of the flowery feel good inserts.
This is dead on to what we are both highlighting. There have been a number of times that I felt a follow-up on a device was warranted but when I checked it was already no longer available anyway. And absolutely, I have witnessed way to many manufacturers that churn out the next device with “New Led’s!, New Groovy Paint!, Faster fire time!” and the damn TC is still worthless.
Over here
a sparky is an electrician (so it fits ish)
a chippy is a builder
a dunny diver – plumber (also known as shit mechanic)
a brickie is a brick layer
A bit of weirdness I’ve not noticed on other mods I’ve had…
Even the very slightest of residue on the 510 sets the resistance wonky. I have seen it with visible amounts of juice with other mods, but never so little that you can’t see it- even when cleaning with a white napkin. I don’t know if the pin is oxidizing quickly and losing sensitivity or what, but I’ve only seen this much variance with this little juice here on this mod. No clue if it is the mod or what, but I find it odd.
I had a build running reliably at .72. I saw it was ‘dancing’ up into the 80’s occasionally then settling back down on the next draw. I cleaned the yippities out of the atty and rebuilt it, yet saw the same. Then I did the ol’ napkin in the threads trick on the mod and it’s been fine since (actually constant at .68 now). Saw nothing at all on the napkin, odd.
That is actually pretty common. The mod is comparing two resistances (actually measuring two voltages) and both of those resistances are very small. The internal resistance is much smaller than the resistance of the atty/coil in most cases. It doesn’t take much of whatever on either the threads or pin of the 510 to create enough resistance to throw those calculations way off. Ask @Grubby someday about the VT75 and the 510 plate. He took a hammer to that one and fixed it. Not what it sounds like but a great story. Sticking with a napkin is a much better choice.
Bang bang Grubbys silver hammer
came down on it’s head!
I’ve got a bit of anxiety at the moment. I mentioned a while ago that the wife’s battery door was a wee bit wiggly… Well, mine is now too. I suspect that possibly the bottom battery has recessed ever so slightly, resulting in a bond just weak enough to allow a bit of wiggle. If I can’t correct it I will replace it with another mod. I know, that’s extreme, but that wiggly door just kills me.
She already has the rainbow version. And it has the slidey cover too. Actually I will tolerate it until the Topside dual comes out. I’d swap back to the iPV8 but it’s so damn beat up…
