I was lucky enough to win a Vaporesso target 200 recently in a competition and literally doubled my mod collection! My question is, I have installed in it the 0.2ohm coil that it was supplied with but the mod reading of the ohms varies every time I remove and replace the tank. So far the mod has shown me that the coil is 0.29ohm, 0.27ohm, 0.26ohm, 0.25ohm. Ironically not once has it showed the 0.20ohms that it is supposed to be.
So, is this a fault with the coil or with the mod detecting the ohms of the coil? I’ve only got 1 other mod (Geekvape L200 with a Smok TFV16) and I’ve not had this happen with any of the coils I’ve ever used in it.
There will be variations in the resistance if the coil is stainless steel and the temperature of the coil is different.
Not sure what the coil material is on that particular coil but the temp of the wire could be a factor (if the coil resistance was tested just after it had been fired)
Vaporesso GTi Mesh Replacement Coils Specifications:
Manufactured By: Vaporesso
Wire Material: Kanthal Resistance
Wicking Material: Japanese Organic Cotton
Available Resistance: 0.2 Ohms – 0.4 Ohms
Wattage: 50W – 75W
For Use With: Vaporesso iTank
Copied from vaporauthority.com. couldn’t find any details on the vaporesso site.
This isn’t an issue btw, I’m just curious why it’s changing and trying to learn a bit in the process
The coil was probably not fully cooled when I was messing with it so I’ll try removing and replacing the tank shortly now it’s cold and see what it reads as.
Well no clue what its doing now lol. It read 0.24ohms when cold. I just spent 10 mins puffing on it to make it nice and hot and it seems to be sticking with 0.24ohms now. No clue why it was fluctuating so much yesterday. Is it a common thing?
No not really especially with Kanthal coils they should stay fairly static - check that your 510 connection on the mod is clean (cotton bud with some IPA will do the trick). If that does nothing I would consider changing out the coil and see what happens.
Hmm ok. I gave the 510 connection a clean but the thing is brand new so it was spotless anyway. I’ve got a 0.4ohm coil here that it came with so when I get around to using that or buying more 0.2ohm or even better Vaporesso release the 0.15ohm coil they say is incoming, I’ll report back.
@Illogik , Solely out of curiosity, have you tried threading your new Vaporesso tank onto your L200, to see what that Mod read’s the ohm’s at, and if it remain’s stable? Or, see if the TFV16 read’s the same(or fluctuate’s) when attached to the Target.
Good idea, I’ll get right on it!
So when I first put the TFV16 onto the Vaporesso mod it read as 0.18ohm. After removing the tank then replacing it again, it read at .13ohm, the same as it reads in my L200. It’s actually rated at 0.12ohm but all of my TFV .12 coils read at .12 or .13ohm in the L200. It never changed after firing.
I put the cold iTank onto the L200 and it reads at .21ohms after firing it once. Before firing, it read a couple of different amounts but always goes back to .21ohms after firing.
Both keep the same ohms when hot.
After putting the itank back on the Vaporesso, it now reads .21 every time lol
The .15ohm baby mesh coil’s I use in my Smok tank’s typically range anywhere from .14 to .21ohm’s depending on the batch, and the mod, actually. I’ve got many of one particular model of mod, and one of them alway’s read’s the coil at the higher number. If I switch the same tank assembly to any other mod, the resistance return’s to near the advertised ohms.
It’s not a perfect science, Andrew, with these mass produced product’s having an acceptable tolerance built in. Many time’s, after installing a new coil, and pulling several hit’s, I’ll loosen the tank away from the 510 pin of the mod, pull the trigger to get the ‘no atomizer’ up on screen, and then thread it back on so it re-read’s the ohmage.
I get that its not an exact science. I was just curious why it was fluctuating so much when I’d not experienced it before. Most of my smok coils read slightly higher than advertised.
I’m only reiterating what @woftam and @whthek have already written about. I’ve tested a lot of mods and they are pretty precise considering the tiny chipset used but no where near as precise as some electronic components. A few hundredths of an ohm fluctuation is very normal in mods. Also mass produced coils are just not accurate. A mod uses a voltage comparator which compares the internal resistance of the mod (or fixed resistance therein) to the load. I haven’t tested the Target 200 so I don’t know how it stacks against other mods. Bottom line, can you perceive a difference in the vape as the readings fluctuate. This is especially crucial if you are using temp control. I have a YiHi SL that will loose its mind on occasion and it really causes problems. Like singed cotton, mega yuck problems. A poorly manufactured atty can also vary resistance. Certified milliohm meters start at around $700. A fifty dollar mod is not going to produce the same results.
I cannot (scientifically) answer that…it’s over my pay scale! lol I can only relate that you are not alone in your experience.
@SmilingOgre write’s quite eloquently about all thing’s electronic, albeit most of it is over my head.
This is pretty much all I needed to know