tried earlier this evening to do firmware update but when i got to the download part it wasnt allowing me to download, was asking me to use z7 when i said ok it just wouldnt open, im at a total loss, dont want to bin it .
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It wants you to use 7 zip to open it. here is a zipped version for you
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not that i can see.
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thanks woftam, just ran the firmware update succesfully and still same problem,when screen lights upcoil shows 0.00,volt 0.00 amp 0.00 power running at 75w.
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really apreciate everyone help.thanks
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Hi =)
Well two of the ‘basics’ have already been suggested (or covered):
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Try different tanks to eliminate the possibility of a bad atty, or series of cartridges (assuming the atties are different brands and use different coils). You could have an entire blister pack of bad coils… Which is why I mentioned different brand atty, but given how many fit in different brands these days, I figure I better specify…
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Cleaning the 510 has already been suggested. Which is great for the exterior, but does nothing if the short is inside. (more soon)
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The other thing I would mention is taking a small pick (as in: probing device) and trying to see if you can pull UP on the center (positive) pin.
There are certain atties which have excessively long male 510 connectors, and if the female 510 connection is too shallow, it tends to “bottom out” the center pin, sometimes “permanently” locking them in place.
As for the “more”… What’s more is if liquid has gotten down into the device, with these being a “sealed unit” (waterproof, etc), you’re pretty much screwed.
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If that ever “fixes” a device, my first recommendation would be to unload it instantly. Because there’s bigger issues… For starters a crap chip going into an indeterminate state, or firmware by shitty programmers. Neither of which bode well for a mod with hopes of longevity. 
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7zip by chance? (if not, I don’t know if I’d trust it…)
7zip is the same as WinRAR or WinZip. All have been around for ages.
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I suggest firmware update as generally it reset every setting to default. It does sound like there is something very wrong here tho.
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could well be a tiny slice of threading stuck in your 510, thus can be a right PITA sometimes to get out but it will do what you are describing, a toothpick can be good, I’ve also used compressed air in the past but that runs the risk of making it worse (blows the bur further down)
hope you manage to sort it 
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@steve did you ever manage to resolve the issue?
The reason I ask is that I now have exactly the same problem.
I have tried multiple attys, as well as cleaning, and bouncing the 510 pin up and down, which moves freely.
Micrometer measurement in the connector is 4mm to the top of the pin, and the attys measure about 4.6mm so it is not that.
Even squirted WD40 in and cleaned.
I’ve read about similar problems on geekvape facebook group. A few people reported that firmware update fixes the problem. A few other people are pissed off at geekvape and want their money back.
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It does seem to be a common issue.
I have even tried to update the firmware and am unable to do that either.
I have opened a ticket at Geekvape, and will see whether they either have a solution, or alternatively will offer a replacement unit.
Maybe this will just become an expensive paperweight.
I hope you get it sorted out. I’ve had luck so far with geekvape, but the only mod of theirs I have is the gbox, and it never gave me issues (except once but juice got into battery compartment and a cleanup fixed it)
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Thought this was the best place to post this.
I had a call this afternoon from a customer who needed me to drop a new mod off to him at work as his old legend had had a bit of a malfunction. I asked him what the malfunction was and it turns out he was the malfunction. He put his mod down on the tracks of a 20-ton excavator and forgot it was there as he trundled off. I am going to see if I can bring it back but right now the batteries won’t fit in as it is a little squashed.
But I was pretty surprised at the condition considering a 20-ton excavator with steel tracks ran over it (the ground was a little soft as we had a few ml of rain today but still surprising)
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Good luck with that one mate.
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I have managed to get my Aegis Legend issued sorted out, the vendor replaced it for me.
Geekvape did eventually respond asking for me to supply all sorts of information, and lots of hoops to jump through, and also said that if they did decide to replace it I would have to ship the old one back to them.
Now however, my interest is peaked, I want to have a look inside it to see what is going on, I am however reluctant to “break it apart”, considering all the sealant they used in manufacture. I watched a video from DJLSB where he “dismantled” one and to be fair that was the end of that MOD.
If anyone has a clever way of achieving the impossible, I would be love to hear your suggestions.
The sealant is just silicone they are not terribly difficult to take apart. You will need a new protective screen & some sealant to put it back together.
https://www.3avape.com/geekvape-aegis-legend-screen-frame.html
Open the battery door and remove the two plastic tubes that the batteries sit in - they are glued in and can be quite difficult.
Pry the front protective screen off with something flat like a butter knife after that everything is pretty easy.
Undo the four screws you see and cut the sealant with a hobby knife or similar
Undo the screws on top of the mod
Undo the screws holding the board into the chassis (gold ones on the board)
Remove the wire that connects up with the little pin that gets depressed when the bat door is closed - you may need to desolder as I did.
Once you have all the done the board and the top of the mod will be able to be seperated from the chassis.
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That is brilliant @woftam thank you for taking the time to explain, and add photos.
Was that the Aegis that the digger rode over?
Yes mate it was