Hi newbie here so be gentile.(didnt know how to edit last(1st) post so deleted and started again)
I just bought my first RTA ( VAPEFLY BRUNHILDE TOP COILER RTA) and its all good.
I have it on a Vaptio N1 Pro 240w mod and the display says 0.21ohm yet the coil pack said 0.35 ohm?
is this because it runs two coils on the deck?
Also what mode should I really be using?
If you coil packs say 0.35 ohm that would be for each coil when you run dual coils the resistance halves so yes that is most likely the reason it reads .21.
This will depend greatly on the coil material if they are made from
- stainless (which I don’t think they are due to the resistance) you can use temp control or wattage mode
- Titanium (which I don’t think they are due to the resistance) you can only use temp control.
- Ni200 (which I don’t think they are due to the resistance) you can only use temp control.
- Kanthal, n80, n90 you can only use in power mode.
Cheers welcome aboard hope that helps
Thank you for your reply and the welcome Woftam.
I’m guessing that it 0…22 and not the theoretical 1.75 ohms (0.35/2) just due to the accuracy of the kit and coil manufacture or could i have damaged the coils in anyway fitting when them in i.e. spacing out the loops and where they are screwed to the connectors? …or am I worrying over nothing and should just enjoy the vape lol
The theoretical 0.175 will depend on leg length and the actual resistance of the atomizer so yes there will be a little variation - just make sure your grub screws are nipped up (check them again after you have done your dry burn) and your coils are glowing evenly and you should be all good.
Try not to stress yourself out too much on impedance readings, especially if you are using pre-made cartridges.
They are flying out of a machine at a Chinese assembly line at Mach 2. They’re aiming for numbers more than “dead on” accuracy in many cases.
The N1 pro (while a solid performer in power mode) is a really old device (in measuring standards). So don’t be surprised if it’s off by 0.02-0.06 on average. Part of it depends on how the leads were dressed (in relation to the attachment to the 510, as well as to the pcb), as well as if the wire got kinked during assy, etc.
Bad batches of an entire strip of cartridges have been known to happen. So I wouldn’t panic if you have a couple, or even a run of cart’s that read a little wonky.
Now, if this happens consistently, then you might want to consider looking deeper into causes. But with just one oddball here or there, no, no need to sweat it!
The main time you need to really exercise caution about impedance readings, is if you’re considering/or working with a mechanical mod (meaning, NO chip of any kind, just a tube of metal and a battery).
Most regulated mods are designed to prevent “user error”.
But I must also compliment your being observant, as well as aware of how it’s operating!
That’s a great habit to develop early on! And may one day (God forbid) be your saving grace!
The safer you are, the safer vaping is!
Cheers Sprksfly, i was using a smok TV16 tank - really nice low resistance air flow 9ml tank on a smok 219 mod( but it now seems to be refusing seeing any tanks connected to it - I popped it open but cant see anytink obvious wrong) the N1 is my back up mod i picked up for @ £16 on ebay last year.) and i just bought the VAPEFLY BRUNHILDE TOP COILER RTA this week (£29.95 from vapingman(dot)co(dot)uk - in fact i just ordered another for my girl) and we both cant believe how much freer and tasty/cooler(?) the experience is compared to our smoks…its like a whole new level.
ahh…i started rambling…anyway… ive just bought a six week old Geek Vape Aegis X off of ebay (£29- well…save money where you can as Technically i don’t need it…but its reviews are good and i could used the durability at work due to past experience so ill find somewhere on here to keep people updated.
As im into PC’s/Andriod/ TV boxes and the like - Has nobody done there own hacks to mod box software ie simple cosmetic changes ? bacground images etc
sorry if this is now in the wrong thread
Maybe unrelated but I’ve had that problem with Smok tanks In the past. What I found is if I unscewed the tank slightly from the mod it would read fine, seams to be a problem with the 510 pin, my solution was to fabricate a very thin spacer cut out of a piece of hard plastic from blister packaging material, used a paper hole punch for the center hole. I put these spacers on All of my Smok tanks: