So my research continues. I was all worried about getting replacement mesh pieces but can’t find them anywhere yet other than the Wotofo website. I’m still on my first one so they seem to last a long time.
I bought a roll of Vandy Vape stainless mesh so I could compare it to the kanthal roll and the Profile mesh.
I was a little worried about popping because the fine VV kanthal would pop sometimes and this SS mesh is even finer. So I wicked it up. Oh make sure to watch the official Wotofo video on youtube as to how to wick it. I watched Mike Vapes and another reviewer waste their time and cotton thinning it and trying to tuck it down like you would a normal RDA. Just cut it off even with the edge of the build deck and use the pancake method. The SS is a much thinner and flimsier fabric, so wicking it took a little more finesse.
I tried it first in wattage mode. The vapor is denser and thicker than the Wotofo mesh. I think the flavor is even a little better. I was kind of dumbfounded after the first hit and it took a minute to register in my pea brain. So I took another hit to make sure I wasn’t imagining things. Then I had to grab the other Profile with the stock mesh to compare. I tried them both at 65w. As good as the stock mesh is, the stainless is way better.
So even though I am not an expert on TC, I decided to try it anyways. I knew DJlsb said that the Rage doesn’t do true temp control, so I tried it on the Capo 216. What a waste of time. That thing sucks. Oh well I got some good batteries from it. So I set it up on the Rage and I settled at 65w and 420 F and OHHH DAYUM. The vapor is so dense and flavorful.
So the research continues. I’ll try dripping it later on a good TC mod. Maybe the NI80 mesh will be next.
I’ve read a little piece by someone who was using mesh and he said to just clamp down one side of the mesh, put the cotton down and then flip the mesh over it and clamp down the other side and trim the edges of the cotton.
I don’t know if that method makes it easier, I will have to find out once I get my Profile.
I just took a whole pad of Muji cotton and rolled it up, tightened one side of the mesh, put the roll of cotton under the arch of mesh, and holding the whole thing down with my thumb, squeezed it all down till the other side of the mesh went into it’s slot and screwed it tight, job done. It does take a hell of a lot of liquid of course
Edit. You will of course have to trim the cotton to the edge of the mesh.
Maybe I made it seem more difficult than it is. I don’t think you will need to secure one side of the mesh and then trap the cotton in there. That defeats one of the main features of this RDA. The ceramic spring loaded piece will provide all the resistance you need, and although you need it fairly tight, a stranglehold on the cotton isn’t required like in previous mesh attys.
The cotton will pull through with the SS just fine. You just can’t pull it through as easily as the very rigid kanthal. You just have to subtlety wiggle it here and there a bit more to avoid deforming the SS, really not a big deal. I found some NI80 so back to the laboratory.
Here are samples of the meshes I have been testing. From left to right; VV NI80, VV SS316L, VV Kanthal A1, Wotofo Profile stock mesh Kanthal. Hopefully you can make out the detail and see how fine the SS is in comparison.
I am cutting all the pieces to the size of the stock Profile mesh. The VV NI80 Is slightly finer than the VV kanthal but very rigid. It ohms out much lower at 0.09. Using it in wattage mode it is similar to the VV kanthal and in TC works fine but not nearly as well as the VV SS.
With both the NI80 and SS in TC mode on the Rage, I purposely didn’t resquonk and kept puffing away. It serves its main purpose well enough in that I got no dry hits. The mod just reduces power to the RDA and you get diminishing vapor each successive draw. Once you squonk it and replenish the cotton, it hits strongly again.
