Homogenizers and Random Thoughts

Within the first hour, I was already told that the sound of my coffee grinder is preferable over me running the TackLife rotary tool. Lol!
Oops!!! “The door is over there…Don’t let it hit you in the ass on your way out!”
:wink:

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Yeah I’ve been creating my own processes just for the basics like warming the VG and cleaning the GC between batches. Safety First has always factored in, but I’m also super careful handling the Tool …not running it dry for example.

On “noiseyness” …my Dremel 400XPR is actually quiet. I can imagine cheaper rotary tools might be noisier, but this is no where near coffee grinder decibels. Maybe something to consider (noise) if you find yourself shopping for something to drive your new GC.

Like everything else I buy, I got my Dremel at an Estate sale for like $25 …the whole kit with flex shaft and lots of accessories in a case. I’ll keep an eye out… once people feel more confident in Public , Estate sales will be in overdrive to handle their backlog of business. This time of year I am usually cleaning up at mass Church Sales because they’re all raising $$ for Holiday events and Charity. This year ZERO …about the same for Estate Sales.

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That sucks but I would like to know more about estate sales. How do you get into it? I suppose I could look it up but I was hoping for a link or some such. I was hoping you could tell me where to start looking.

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Download the FREE app “Yard Sale Treasure Map” it pulls from Craigslist etc It shows a GPS driven map with drop pins linking the actual ad

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Interesting post. Just wondering is the Gamechanger head needed or any FSH-2A one is fine?

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Seemingly stupid question, but , Ive just spun up a 28 ml of a Killer Kustard Clone with the GC, and was about to put the Boston Round with hot liquid into the Ultra Sonic Cleaner… hot. Or should I let this cool first, to room temp? its Max VG. any clarity here. Waiting on my next call. Thanks in advance. doubt it would matter either way, but… :wink:

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personally I would put it in hot, you’ll shake the gas free easier in a less viscous liquid (I would imagine)

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Welcome to the forum @rainman , If you’d be so kind as to pop up an introduction post in the following thread, so we can officially welcome you in :wink: cheers.

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Thanks for the reply. I’ve also emailed you to get on the waiting list :grin:

In the meantime I’ve bought myself FSH-2A version and will be trying it out once it gets here.

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I gotta say, @anon96069639. Ive been slinging flavors into bottles for a few years now. The recipes Ive made using this GC and vaping same day or next day are the best tasting Ive ever made. This GC Homogenizer has taken my mixing beyond “Next Level”

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@Tmease it is awesome, I totally agree. Next level sh!t here my friend.

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I have broken many a glass by putting something hot into a cold glass or vice versa. I usually will put hot water into my UC

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tyvm. got it now installed. Ill take it for a spin over the weekend!

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Ok this is totally random …still working for me. Turns out my large size GC fits inside a papertowel tube. I had a 70% empty roll of paper towels in one hand and a homogenizer in the other …add Man-brain and …B00M. So helps store and serve up needed paper towels for any occasion, and offers a little protection for the business end of my homogenizer.

Oh yeah I know this one is overloaded with double entendre, but I had to share …plus I have a handy (and safe!) place to stuff the two [cough] which become kind of long and bulky when inserted together, that helps make it work for me …a full size open shelf inches below my desktop

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This comes to mind… But totally off topic…

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My first bottles with the GC I mixed 100ml in 120ml bottles (as recommended). It went so well volume-wise that I thought I could bump to 110ml in a 120 Boston round …and it did work (no spillage). I hold my bottle in front of my monitor to shine light through the bottle to watch while the juice gets “creamy” and are confident it’s 100% homogenized. When I upped just 10mls it seemed to struggle …even fail without some gymnastics to thoroughly mix. I am guessing it’s best to limit the homogenization “zone” to only the straight-edged sides of the Boston round.

Once I was getting the level up into the “round” it was blocking the fluid dynamics of overall flow inside the bottle. I was using warmed VG always. I dropped back down to 100ml in my 120ml bottle and it worked better. Might go back to mixing in an Erlenmeyer as it was clear and mixed seemingly faster …I just didn’t like doing all those “dishes”. Mixing it right in the bottle is soo easy, only the tool to clean.

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I’ve been using the FSH-2A and a 150ml Erlenmeyer to mix 120ml batches. It’s right at the limit in terms of flask volume once the mix expands, but it does work nicely.

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It… honestly wouldn’t surprise me if they are outsourced to overseas (China, or Hong Kong, usually) by Dremel or others as very little in the way of small parts like this are still manufactured here. Drives me batty when I buy a product that is made here to only have to wait weeks for spares to arrive! (Hotpoint springs to mind, but that is for another topic.)

I could contact any UK company easy enough, but I wouldn’t put my money on it being “British” at all.

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Did some investigation and it was somewhat obscured, but “GZTool” = Made in China …for anyone else searching. You can create a “Saved Search” on eBay (also eBay.UK) for " 275 x 40 British Standard Whitworth Thread Tap" or “Whitworth Thread Tap Set” (both) and you will get an alert if someone posts a new listing.

You could also buy multiple China Taps and mic out one with better tolerances for your needs. I’m sure their quality control is a problem, but that could actually work in your favor. The Threads on my GC were very tight which is a good thing and I have to guess a perfect new tap to exact specs may even result in a looser fit (guessing). The shitty China taps might just give you that .0001th undersize in a batch of random taps.

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The tight fit seemed perfect (mine is a Dremel brand), so that was no critique. A metal drive shaft into a plastic collet (on a highspeed rotary tool) would eventually/quickly strip if there was any play. My GC tool (your tool!) is perfect from metal finishes to plastic tapped and die cut parts. Plus I have more than one Dremel, so I may never need it to come apart.

I was once a QC guy at a tool manufacturer. We cut carbide drill bits for making the holes in circuit boards …seriously tiny tungsten carbide drill bits. I dressed diamond cutting wheel$ and setup DoAlls that cut the blanks. “Religious tolerance” has a different definition for me :wink: …maybe we go to the same “church” :smiley:

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