Grubbys different look at the Hcigar VT75

So, some of you know my luck with mods and how many I’ve had to dispose of but this one has me intrigued, I had to strip it because liquid was spewing out, turns out, the 510 is allowing liquid in somehow… :confused:

This is a breakdown of my VT75 in picture form.

The Buttons: Solid metal buttons, very nice.

The “C” Chassis, bad design here, a gap appears at the battery entry point due to no support after some time using.

The 510, press fit? Haven’t attempted to remove it yet…

Something to note about the “C” chassis is this little screw that adjusts the negative polarity.

And here you can see where that connects on the board (the little cylinder under the USB port)

Here is a nice view of the front of the board.

The overall enclosure (the red part) is decent and looks like it would last a fair bit, just a shame about the “C” chassis and leaky 510, although I suspect that is more of a problem with my EXO tank…


Kool, thanks for showing the guts Grub :+1:

I had 2 VT75’s but wound up getting rid of both, the first one I had the C frame wound up getting more of a gap over time. The 510 threaded part was also a bad idea, started having problems with that as well so I removed it and placed an o’ring under to keep it in place, you also have to clean the threads or it starts doing odd things.

I love the form factor but there just not built to last, that’s a shame as I did enjoy it when it worked right.


I need more of this type of fire buttons!

Would appreciate a close up of the main pcb should you ever have it apart again! :wink:

Nice little spread layout there! :thumbsup:


Groove post! They are a weird mod for sure. I pull mine apart occasionally and clean it like it was a mech and bend the C frame back into shape. It’s a love/hate relationship.


@Sprkslfly Opened this up to clean it and straighten out the C Chassis… Take a look at these photos…

2 boards? You can clearly see another USB port and a button… :confused: Any idea why they would do this?

Edit: So the front board is just a re map of the DNA75 buttons?

Actual DNA75 Board for comparison


Nice shots! Thank you!

Looks like they had Evolv do a custom conversion header board for this particular application. (At least, that’s what I take away from the pics)

The implementation is “too clean” to be a third party pcb IMO. Especially when you take into consideration the tight tolerances around the 2nd (read as original board’s) USB port. Nice way to off-load old stock with a minimal impact to additional costs!


I’ve thought about trying to remove the DNA board and rehousing it, seems every possible solder point has been soldered though, so I’m not sure if it will be possible.


Yeah I hear you. Not sure if I’d even think about attempting it without at least comparing it to an original stock board. Having been in the production (briefly for a half year or so) side of the house, I recall times where things like this get done, but we’d custom mod (retrofit) boards by specific component to allow for headers. (Custom value tweaks for pathing changes, deactivation of certain traces to enable or reroute the circuit, etc etc)

Production didn’t suit me though. No brain use. Just repetition. Ughhh. Bored silly. :laughing:


Dude; that is exactly what happened with mine. I could post the same exact pics.

Mine went a little further and stripped the battery door, which really ticked me off. So I HAVE to rehouse mine. This is where I will get the materials to do so. They are even having a memorial day sale. They have some decent enclosures and every thing you need to mount a DNA board in one of their DNA enclosures
for what ever reason I had to put the link on the bottom of the page



Ya, It’s a little vague isn’t it? I belong to a facebook group of builders that whiterose0818 introduced me to. I found out that they are interchangeable.

When I get back later I’ll give it a look, because I mapped out everything I needed