@Mod is there a chance we could move this to its own thread?
If we can find the cause, and hopefully a fix… It would make it easier to find for folks with the same issue!
Ok… So, 510 doesn’t seem to be the problem. (Didn’t really think it would be, but, it’s SO easy to check, that I figured it can’t hurt!)
How comfortable would you be with the idea of opening the mod? And if so, do you have at least a torx driver/Allen key to be able to?
I’m picturing possibly one of the following scenarios here (given the complaint/symptom):
a bad solder joint
a broken wire
corrosion (or glazing) on the battery contacts
a broken battery contact
grime in the “monitoring pin” (if there is one)
firmware that’s flaked out (reflash perhaps?)
or the worst case… Eliquid in the mod, in which case, it’s most likely to end up a ‘parts unit’.
My normal suggestion would be to hold the mod upside down (510 towards the floor) take a Q-tip
slightly damp with isopropyl alcohol, and run it around the inside of the 510. While still upside down, grab a clean, dry Q-tip and repeat.
Once you’ve done that, do the same thing for all exposed areas of the inside of the metal on the battery door. Making sure to dry afterwards…
Outside of ‘basic maintenance’ (the above cleaning)… It’s going to have to have a look inside.
I cleaned all the contacts and the 510 yesterday, no difference.
I put the battery in my Tesla Punk Mini and it worked fine in there so the batteries are fine.
There’s only one screw at the bottom, I’m not sure if removing that would enable me to open up the entire thing.
I read in some YT comments that screwing it tight might solve this problem and for some it did but for others it didn’t.
I’ve got loads of different sizes of torcs but the smallest one I have is still a little too big.
I might be able to find a smaller one in a hardware store but it is 35 degrees celsius here at the moment and I’m melting just sitting still
I have updated the software and that gave me a new screen but didn’t solve the problem.
Maybe there’s a firmware update for it, I’ll have to look into that.
Edit; I’m confused now, I found upgrade firmware but it is the software upgrade that I already have.
I found a hardware store nearby and got a fitting torc but there’s no way to open up this thing when it’s unscrewed.
I have tightened the screw now and will find out if I’m able to vape the battery empty or not.
I’ve never had any leaking tank issues with this kit so I doubt there is liquid inside.
So far it is still working. The battery is about half full now so I have to see if it starts up again when it’s down to a third.
That’s what I find so weird that it does work on a full battery.
In that respect I’m happy my dog died in June, she was going on 20 and she would have suffered with this.
This weather is exceptional though. I can’t remember ever having something like this. We usually have a heatwave of just above 30 C for about two or three days and then we get a thunderstorm and things cool off again.
Here at my place we had a drought in 2012 that lasted from the last half of April until September. At my house it literally did not rain all that time. @Sprkslfly lives somewhat close and probably remembers, but the city got a little rain once in a while. Out here we got nothing. I remember occasionally seeing lightning in the night sky but it never rained. There were multiple wildfires, grassy medians in the highway would dry up and burn. We actually refrained from shooting airborne fireworks on the 4th of July fearing the spark of a wildfire (we live in the woods). I did not have to mow the lawn for almost 4 months- unheard of. It was all brown and rough. We had an above ground pool at the time, and I had to top it off weekly. Aside from the profound dry, it was also incredibly warm for long stretches. 100 degrees was normal; 90’s at 10PM was common all summer. Our driveway is rock, and I still recall the dust it would kick up as we drove on it. Usually there is none, even in drier periods.
Then one afternoon, the skies darkened and we got (surprise- unforecasted) a torrential downpour. After that, we got regular rain and all was well. Sure was memorable.
Oh, sorry for the derail. My two cents says I do NOT trust that device until the root cause is identified and corrected.
I can put my two cents next to yours. I did manage to get almost a whole battery out of it before it started the weak battery warning but you’re right, I have plenty other devices and am a bit weary of the thing. You never know what will happen next and better safe than sorry.
We didn’t have any of that (yet) but it’s been pretty bad in Greece and they are also struggling with it in Britain and Sweden.
That implies that the ground goes through the chassis, rather than a more direct path (from battery, immediately through the battery connectors, and then into a wire, then directly into the board). I’ve seen this on Eleaf and Joyetech, where they will solder a ground wire to the chassis (usually on the top cap), and then the negative from the battery cover makes direct contact with the chassis. It’s the cheapest (and IMO crapiest) way to do things, but from the looks of what I’ve seen in online pics/videos, yours does not appear to use this method.
Think of it this way…
Software is what gets installed on your computer. Firmware is what the computer program installs onto your mod. (The software is what facilitates the communication between the two. The firmware is what tells your mod how to behave.)
Well, that’s a plus… But that sucks. chuckles
Because it then becomes most likely that:
Or, it’s so hot, that your mod is at the upper limits of a functional range (because cheaper components were used).
Either way, I’d say shelve it until things cool down, and use your more reliable mods. No need risking safety.
If it goes back to normal operation when it cools down, it could be a pointer.
If it doesn’t, then it’s probably just one of those things… (needs more than a spanking)
