The fisherman’s corner


We did not have a ton of time on the boat but I did learn a few things and there will be some big changes over the winter.

First, all four batteries on the transom had the rear of the boat sagging a lot compared to the front, even with human distribution. Second, the trolling motor at the bow was quite inconvenient as it was right in the way of the front passengers when stowed, and too hard to walk around when fishing. Thirdly, the trolling motor and fish finder were unable to communicate. Researching online, it seems the distance between them is too great and the signal is too degraded. And lastly, the power switches for the batteries was quite hard to access when the boat was in the water. I had to lay down and stretch sideways, and I don’t like to work.

So, I will be moving the batteries up to the front underseat storage area, as well as routing the main switches there as well. There is plenty of room; I measured.

I will be mounting the trolling motor to the rear, adjacent to the transom just to to the right. That means removing the ladder but we will not use it anyway. Having the troller at the back also reduces the cable run to under 10 feet rather than the 26’ needed for proper routing to the front. It will also make it much easier to fish, as it will be out of the way rather than right in the way. Plus, I can stow and test it out of the water this way, whereas the trailer prevented that when it was in front. (Which is why I could not test the NMEA communication until I was on the water/off the trailer). And, the transducer will be moved to the other pontoon to accommodate the troller being where the ducer currently is.

All this will make for a way better time out there next time.


You really need to try one of these rods out if you like ultralights, most sensitive rod I have ever owned and most of my bass gear is higher end st. Croix rods and a few g. Loomis rods from back before Shimano bought them out, my esp takes the cake by far. The vibration amplifying discs in the handle are no joke or gimmick, I can literally feel slack line bites, it took me almost two weeks of fishing 3-4 times a week to get used to it, I was setting the hook and pulling back single blades of grass lol. I usually bluegill and crappie fish with a 1/64 ounce hair jig, and with this rod I can launch it a good 50 feet, and I have also landed a 9 pound carp with it so it has plenty of backbone. From ice out till late may/ early June I run sun line sniper fc flourocarbon line, 3lb test, and the rest of the year I run 4lb stren monofilament.


That’s wild. I’m probably not a good enough fisherman to use something like that but I bet that’s a blast. Watched the video and that’s really a nice net setup too.

I’m not sure what our gear is without digging it out but its nothing like that. Nevertheless we like to panfish and my wife loves it. She’s intense when fishing and about as much fun to watch as the fishing. Talks to the little buggers and is pretty good.


To be honest, the only way that rods performance would be lost on you is if you only use bobbers to fish, then you don’t need the sensitivity, but a more sensitive rod will make you a better fisherman, especially for crappie. Crappie are such light biters that a more sensitive rod actually translates to more fish in the boat, but some people won’t spend 65 bucks on a rod, I’m the type that would spend 100 on another esp rod after using one lol fishing is the only aspect of my life where I don’t exclusively shop the discount section lol but I fish a lot and a good rod will last for a decade or two. I still have a couple galyans rods, and they have been out of business for at least a decade, probably longer lol


We do both depending on where we are. Usually I rig a slip bobber for her but not always. (keeps her off the bottom and snags etc.) About always jigs but sometimes w/bee moth and minnows. We love crappie and usually get a mess of them at the Missisinewa or Salamonie reservoirs although we go to some other lakes. I had a surgery (legs) that laid me up for quite awhile so I didn’t take our boat out a single time this year. Couldn’t.

We can never figure out what to buy each for gifts so I may just have to have one or two of these.


Those rods look pretty good @Fishaddict420. I’ve been looking for a new ultralight combo since I lost my beloved Shimano Symetre combo in the lake last year. I got that in the 80’s as a teen, and it was $120! which was an inordinate amount of money for me then. At the time, a top of the line Shimano setup and I felt like I was Bill Dance. It was like an extension of my arm and I still miss it terribly. I got a Bass Pro POS combo just to have something for the trip, and it’s OK, but I need quality again. Boy I miss that rod and reel.


I have actually emailed the company asking them to make an esp rod for drop shot fishing for bass, they never did reply to me though lol if they made bass rods with the same technology I would be to broke to vape lol


So, hopefully this doesn’t sounds like a dumb question. Never owned a boat prior to Boaty, but I know the motors are to be winterized every year.

I found this link, is it correct and comprehensive enough to get it done?


Yes, but fogging is the most important. I do not like leaving gas in the carb bowl so I drain them after fogging. Use stabilizer in the gas tank.The gear oil change is to eliminate the chance of having water in it and freezing… First year -do it. Thereafter, check for water. Experience is the teacher.

For example. I have an inboard and lot of people use antifreeze in the engine block and do all kinds of unnecessary things. I drain, blow it out with compressed air, and replace the drain plugs. Air doesn’t freeze. Antifreeze can.


A friend recommended Boeshield for the fogging, thoughts?


Any fogging oil should work.


Just thought. You probably have injectors instead of carbs. Disregard and leave stabilizer in.


I had just woke up and was kinda fuzzy. The best advice I can give anyone is to get a factory service manual and follow it. Hell, I don’t even know if that is a two stroke or four stroke. I spent a long time on iboats. You may find a manual there and the people there are top notch. Too bad all the old timers are dying off. Great place for all boating matters.


Thanks. It’s an F90 4 stroke. I’ll look at the manual but it’s been a while since I looked at an actual book! And I probably do need to join a boating forum, haven’t thought about that.


Another thing I need to do is get a better cover. It has the ‘default’ snap-on cover and it’s in good shape, but it has a couple troubling features I don’t like… It can’t be trailered with the cover on because it will snap off and flap away to the heavens. And, it doesn’t cover all of the deck, only the furniture part. So the front two feet are always exposed, leaving the carpet just primed to decay and kill the floor too (I assume).


iboats. Great pontoon threads.


Joined there. I hate being new on forums, you feel like saying anything raises eyebrows from long-timers. We’ll see how it goes. Thanks for the tip.


Hey @mrpipes, I am waiting for one more item to be delivered before I can winterize… They are calling for below freezing temps in a couple days, will I still be OK if I haven’t been able to do it by then?


The only thing that I might consider is pulling the plug wires and cranking it a few times, gently, to make sure there is no water in the water pump. Don’t run it. A dry impeller pukes quickly. I seriously doubt that there is but a few cranks will empty it. If there is a pull start or access to the flywheel, turn it by hand with the key off. Other than that I can’t think of anything else. I guess you could go ahead and drain the lower end gear oil, but I highly doubt that there is any water in it.


Another question @mrpipes sir… When we went out to the Ozarks, I used the Sta-Bil at that time because I knew it was the last time we’d be out in it. DO I need to add more prior to winterizing?